Looking for a new boiler?


Which will give you great hot water?

Which has the longest guarantee?

Which will fit your kitchen cupboard?










PLEASE NOTE: We don’t sell boilers - we just show all the boilers that you might want to see to make your choice.

We also give you general review information on the boiler manufacturers, buying a boiler, and just how

easy (or not!) it is to get in touch with manufacturers.


Just find the boiler that suits your needs

...But first read all about boilers at the foot of this webpage













Buying a link on BoilerBuddy.co.uk

If you are a retailer of boilers, you can buy a link (click direct to your website page) for 50p per boiler, per week - minimum period 13 weeks. The price we show will be your price.



We can link direct to your website pages for £1 per link, per week - minimum period 13 weeks.







The BoilerBuddy test of service:


We evaluate each boiler manufacturer to see how well they respond to an enquiry, by phone and by email. We also evaluate just how easy it is to contact them by navigating their website, and their website in general. Times when phone calls are made are always mid-a.m. These evaluations are repeated and logged. This results in a star-rating system - shown next to the manufacturer’s name. We contact every manufacturer with a service enquiry, and see how well they respond. Last contact: 22/03/16 between 9.50 and 10.15


It should be noted that only one boiler manufacturer responded to our email asking for information on their products (Johnson & Starley)! This is a terrible indictment of the ability of boiler manufacturers to conduct themselves professionally, and sadly indicative of many companies. No staff, from any other company, actively wished to promote their products - even when the enquiry was aimed at their marketing departments...and we give them a listing of their products completely FREE! One company (Ariston) deleted our email without even reading it, and Glow-worm refused to give us an email address!


Disclaimer: ALL the information here is provided on the websites of the manufacturers as shown. We do NOT therefore accept any liability for incorrect information


Last update: 28/03/16





For independent advice and help on plumbing & heating, click this link - www.thehotplumber.com

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Protect Your Combi Boiler

...against limescale


CombiBuddy is a siliphos limescale inhibitor...

GUARANTEED to work...

or your money back!

Assured limescale protection


£76.00 including postage

See combibuddy.co.uk

Key to chart:


‘Our rating’ means our assessment of the company based on contact, response, and their website. It isn’t our evaluation of the company’s products.

‘?’ means the information was assumed, but not given by the manufacturer.

‘Max HW flow in LPM’ means the hot water flow rate of a combi boiler - usually at a 35 degree c rise. So if your mains cold water is at 15 degrees c, then the flow of hot water will be ‘x’ if the temperature at the nearest tap is 50 degrees c. For a low kilowatt output boiler this could be as low as 9 litres per minute. On a very cold Winter’s day, you might only get a temperature of 40 degrees c (water coming in at 5 degrees and boiler raising it 35 degrees) from that tap at 9 litres per minute. This wouldn’t be efficient at filling a bath, and would only be barely good enough for a shower. Even then, anyone else in the property, attempting to draw hot water at the same time, would severely affect the shower’s performance.



So you want to buy a boiler?

'Boiler' is a misnomer. Certainly, in days gone by, boilers could indeed accidently boil. But modern domestic boilers have their maximum temperature set at no more than 82c, sometimes less.


Make sure you choose a boiler to suit your system. There are three types of heating system:

1. Heated by a regular boiler

2. Heated by a system boiler

3. Heated by a combi boiler


What does this mean?


A regular boiler (sometimes called a ‘heat only’ boiler) is one that heats the heating system radiators, but also heats a cylinder of hot water usually located in an 'airing cupboard'. There are therefore two water systems. Years ago, this was the only system there was. It usually consists of a boiler, a cylinder, two tanks in the loft (main tank and expansion tank), plus a pump, diverter valve, and programmer.


A system boiler does away with the expansion water tank. Instead, the system is pressurised. Very often, a 'heat bank' (instead of a cylinder) is fed by hot water from the boiler. This allows for mains pressure hot water. System boilers very often feed underfloor heating systems. System boilers have the pump built-in, but a diverter valve is still required to divert the heated water to either the radiators or the store of hot water. Obviously, there are still two water systems.


A combi boiler combines the heating and hot water in one boiler, so there are no tanks or cylinders. The system is pressurised. The water that is in the taps is NOT the same water that is in the radiators (there are still two systems). The pump is built-in, and so is the diverter valve. A combi boiler can only heat either the hot water being demanded, or the heating at one time. So the hot water takes priority – the heating will not be fed with hot water until the hot tap is turned off. The smaller the output (in kilowatts) the less will be the flow of hot water. Generally, a '24' boiler is only really suitable for a single person in a flat. For a larger family, a combi boiler can still be used, but it should generally be at least a '35'. It means that there will be sufficient heat available to allow a good flow of hot water. Even then, it may only be able to supply one hot tap at a time. If great hot water flow is your priority then you might look to a system boiler instead of a combi, together with a thermal store or heat bank.


Thermal stores and heat banks:

These are NOT boilers. They hold heated water, then give it up on demand. A thermal store stores hot water. The heat energy will be passed to mains cold water flowing through a heat exchanger. A heat bank will 'bank' hot water under pressure, then release it to a tap on demand. Thermal stores are vented (meaning they have a small expansion tank) whereas heat banks are pressurised cylinders that obviously are not vented. Unvented heat banks require qualified installers and regular servicing. Vented thermal stores require neither. Our advice would always be to opt for a thermal store over a heat bank – though heat banks are far more common. It's possible to get thermal stores and heat banks that are electrically heated (by immersion heaters) rather than heated by a boiler. These are very simple units that don't (usually) require pumps and valves, and therefore tend to be more reliable. There are a few thermals stores that do use a pump, and this decreases their reliability factor. The quality of the immersion heaters is also paramount to this reliability. Choose wisely, as these appliances tend to be twice the cost of a boiler.



Gas is cheapest, but only the actual fuel. Gas boilers require regular servicing and maintenance, and it may be prudent to take out insurance to cover faults and breakdowns. This should be factored in to your calculations when thinking about which fuel. It is often overlooked by very many people who should know better. The longevity of the appliance matters very much as well. If your gas boiler costs £2,500 to replace, and only lasts 10 years, then that's £250 EVERY YEAR that you should be adding in. Electric heating (by underfloor heating, fan heaters, etc.) can work out only a little more than gas when these factors are taken into account. Electric heating tends to get a bad press because those that argue against it tend to be ignorant of the true costs of running a gas boiler. Electric heating isn't just more reliable, it is much more controllable as well. Oil is either loved or loathed. When oil is cheap then it's great. But you have to have regular deliveries, a tank of oil on your property, and regular servicing. The smell of an oil boiler isn't pleasant, and the fumes contribute to poor air quality. Biomass (wood) is the new kid on the block, and the boilers are around three times the price of a gas boiler to supply and install. They bear little relation to the wood-burners of old. Their appeal is mainly to the 'eco-concious' and those with the time to maintain the fuel needed. The choice nowadays tends to be between electric and gas. Gas is relatively cheap, but requires maintenance, and there are reliability issues. Electric has an excellent reliability appeal, and great ease of use, but suffers from relatively high fuel costs. There are lots of 'compare' websites between the two fuels that (for reasons best known to themselves) rate electric costs much higher than you can actually get it for if you shop around. We've seen electricity for just 9p per kWh. It should be remembered that gas is less than half this, but comes with issues that you wouldn't have with electric heating. Consider your fuel choice wisely...it's not just about the cost! You want a system that is reliable, easy to use, controllable and convenient.


The 'best' boiler

The best boiler is going to be any boiler that doesn't let you down! Having no heating on a freezing cold day is horrible. But perhaps having no hot water is even worse. At least with no heating you can go to your local diy store and buy an armful of electric fan heaters. But being without hot water nowadays is an unthinkable thought. So reliability is the key. Usually, simplicity results in reliability. We've seen crazily-complex appliances that were seemingly designed by a complete idiot. If you want to choose a combi boiler then you really should only consider a high-output model if you have a family. Combi boilers of around 24 kilowatts are really only suitable for one person living alone. Family demands mean a good flow of hot water (per minute), so look for a high output model of perhaps around 15 litres per minute. Be wary of buying some obscure make that you've never heard of. If it goes wrong, you may struggle to find an engineer who would be willing (and even competent enough) to tackle the fault issue. Always consider taking out insurance for maintenance anyway. If your boiler goes off during Christmas week, you may find it difficult to get anyone to fix it even if it is a well-known make. At least with insurance they have a duty (hopefully!) to fix it promptly.



Don't be tempted to site your boiler in your loftspace unless absolutely necessary. First of all, some public liability insurance companies are reluctant to cover an engineer if he has to use a non-standard staircase to enter your loftspace. Lofts aren't always floorboarded, either. Secondly, many homeowners tend to cram their loft with junk. You would have to make a clearing through that junk for your engineer to get to the boiler. Loftspaces are cold in the Winter and hot in the Summer, and almost always full of fibreglass particles. Your engineer won't be keen to work on your boiler! If your engineer refuses to go up there, don't be surprised. Modern boilers are quiet, so it would be better to site it in a cupboard, even if it's adjacent to a bedroom. A garage is a great place for a boiler, but check with your insurance company first.



Don't be frightened by what you hear about boilers. They are very safe appliances. Indeed, many of the reliability issues that dog gas boilers tend to be related to safety devices failing, which shuts the boiler down as a 'failsafe'. For a modern boiler to emit carbon monoxide, a whole series of faults have had to have occurred. The normal products of gas combustion are carbon dioxide (a harmless gas) and water vapour. But if you have to site a boiler in a child's bedroom, and that worries you, then go for an electric boiler. With anything other than an electric boiler, ALWAYS have a working carbon monoxide detector positioned close by.



We list ALL the boilers that

you can buy in the UK...


Choose your fuel:

Electric, gas, oil

334 boilers listed!


Our star rating system will be fully uploaded soon, but as you can see from the results so far, no manufacturer is going to be classed as ‘Excellent’. Some of the boiler manufacturers didn’t even reply to an email requesting service for a fault on a new boiler! The highest-rated manufacturer so far is ATAG, while the lowest rated is Glow-Worm.


We will be awarding a ‘Best Buy’ on a combi boiler when all the results are in.